Wednesday, March 12, 2008

News from the Magic Isle

The most unusual bed and breakfast in the state of Hawaii-or anywhere else, for that matter- is on the Big Island. It's called The Lava House and it's located in the now-mostly-covered-by-lava subdivision of Royal Gardens on the south flank of Kilauea Volcano. Jack Thompson, the 57 year old owner of The Lava House, is one of the only two residents left in Royal Gardens. He has lived in his home since before Madame Pele began pouring lava into Royal Gardens twenty-five years ago. He used to work in Hilo, but now he is retired and can spend all his time in his (still untouched by Madame Pele) home. His property is beautiful with lush landscaping and lots of fruit trees in his backyard. He goes back and forth to Hilo on his motorcycle across the lava, as there are no passable roads left.



Mr. Thompson says there are a lot of benefits to living in such an isolated style. He doesn't have to worry about crime. His neighborhood is very peaceful and quiet, which is just the way he likes it. There is a bit of light pollution at night from the glow of the molten lava pouring into the ocean down on the coast, but he has TV to watch, run by a gasoline generator.

Speaking of the glow at night, years ago when the lava from the Volcano first approached Royal Gardens, I had been invited to dinner and to spend the night with friends who lived in Royal Gardens. As I was driving there, it was dark and the whole sky was lit by a red glow, and the air was hot. As I drove into Royal Gardens, I saw families sitting out on their decks, playing cards, eating and doing whatever families do in the early evening. They seemed to be unconcerned about any encroaching lava. I, on the other hand, was very nervous. Have I mentioned that I am a coward? I turned around, drove back the way I had come, phoned my friends with some excuse, and spent the night in a hotel in Hilo. The next day, my friends were still there and hadn't been swallowed by hot lava in the night. They, and all the other families, were depending on Hawaii Civil Defense to warn them in plenty of time. That day eventually came and all those families have moved away and Madame Pele has had a field day burning up their houses...

But Jack Thompson's house is still untouched. He says he will stay there until he sees the lava rolling toward him. He is not afraid of the lava because he says that you can outrun it easier than you can outrun a car. So, with amazing sangfroid, he has turned his Lava House into a bed and breakfast. His guests arrive by helicopter. Strangely(!), most do not spend the night. They eat lunch with Jack on his lanai, then they get back in their helicopters and fly away again. So if you would like to spend some time in a very unusual bed and breakfast, you can contact Jack at.808-756-4270. You will have a great story to tell your grandchildren. But don't wait too long...

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